Cycling Cadence for Beginners: The Complete Guide

Cadence is one of the more common terms you will come across in biking because it plays a significant role in making the riding experience better. It is linked directly to efficiency, which is something most cyclists, beginners, in particular, work hard on. The goal is to maximize your cadence and efficiency to achieve maximum performance. 

In simple terms, cadence refers to the speed at which you turn the pedals on your bike. It is measured by revolutions per minute, where 1 revolution is 1 full circle around the crank. Cyclists aim to expend less energy while achieving peak performance.  

In this article, we will talk about cadence, why it matters, and how it can help you build your strength and stamina, so you are better equipped to take on various cycling challenges. I will also quickly delve into the basic parts of a bike that may influence cadence, and then I’ll give practical tips on improving your cycling cadence. Let’s get started!

What is Cycling Cadence?

Cadence refers to the speed with which a cyclist travels, measured by the number of crank revolutions per minute. Essentially, it refers to how fast or slow you pedal and how many full rotations you make per minute. For instance, if your cadence is at 50 RPM, it means you make 50 full rotations in 1 minute as you pedal. 

Cadence corresponds to wheel speed and can be altered by changes in gear. In a typical bike with gears, cadence usually changes depending on factors like the bike’s varying speeds, the road’s degree of incline, or travel duration. Cadence is generally altered to minimize energy expenditure and fatigue.

How To Determine Your Cadence

You can quickly determine your cadence — both average and real-time cadence — if your bike is equipped with a cycling computer. A cycling computer can provide other valuable information, such as your average speed, distance traveled, and ride time. You can also use it to gauge your estimated time of arrival at your pinpointed destination, bike weight, and even your heart rate, depending on the type of cycling computer you have. 

You can also download apps on your smartphone to help you track your progress and determine your stats. If you don’t own a cycling computer yet, an app on your phone is a more cost-efficient option than buying a cycling computer. Here are some great app options to consider:

• Strava
• Cadence
• MapMyRide
• Training Peaks
• Zwift
• CycleMeter

However, the simplest and most inexpensive way to determine your cadence is via a cadence sensor. This gadget is usually attached to the bike’s chainstay and works hand in hand with a magnet attached to the crank arm. The sensor can then get to work tracking how many times the magnet whizzes by it as you pedal on your bike, translating to revolutions made per minute. 

Get To Know Your Bike’s Basic Parts

To fully understand the concept of cadence, it is best to familiarize yourself with the main parts of your bike that play significant roles in improving cycling efficiency. Knowing their functions and how they all work harmoniously together will give you a better grasp of how you can make them work to your advantage. 

Let’s get down to the basics:

Frame

Bike frames are made of different types of material, each offering unique advantages to cater to various needs. You can go for a basic, inexpensive tubular steel frame or a lighter aluminum frame. If you’re keen on speed and going long distances, a pricier carbon fiber frame would be ideal since it’s more lightweight, sturdier, and rustproof.

A good bike frame should be strong enough to absorb and distribute the rider’s weight throughout the bike. It should be tough enough to handle different scenarios, such as going uphill, downhill, or riding on a bumpy road. You might notice that bike frames generally look like a diamond with 2 triangles fused together. This design helps distribute weight evenly between the front and back wheels, making the ride more stable in various scenarios. 

In addition, the rider’s body is seen as an extension of the bike itself since its varied positions while riding can significantly affect how the bike performs. For instance, when riding uphill, leaning your body forward on the bike applies added force on the pedals, translating to more power. Some riders even stand on their pedals while riding for maximum force. 

Handlebar

The handlebar, attached to the front wheel through the stem and fork, is responsible for steering your bike in the direction you want it to go. There are different types of handlebars to choose from, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. Your choice of handlebar can affect how comfortable you’ll be on your bike and how well you’ll be able to control it.

Here are some of the basic options:

Flat Bars  

Flat bars are commonly found in fixed-gear, mountain, and city bikes. They can be counted on for extra stability on rough terrain and sharp climbs. They handle high speeds on flat surfaces pretty well, too.

The cyclist’s shoulder width is one of the main determinants for choosing a flat bar for a particular bike. Ideally, the shoulder width should match the flat bar’s width. However, as with all other handlebars, the rider’s comfort is of primary importance since this translates to achieving the desired output more effectively. 

A great alternative to flat bars is riser bars. This type of handlebar encourages a more upright position, ideal for better maneuverability and quicker response. As the name implies, riser bars feature varying degrees of lift in the bars so riders can easily find which best suits them. 

Drop Bars

When I think of road bikes, drop bars unwittingly come to mind. Drop bars are well-loved because they are ergonomically designed with the rider’s comfort and the bike’s efficiency as the main points of focus. 

The rider, biking in a tucked form, significantly adds to the bike’s aerodynamics. This posture also gives more leverage against the pedals, thus boosting pedaling power. The key is choosing drop bars tailor-fitted to your body for maximum effect. 

Here are some key points to consider:

• Shoulder width: The drop bar’s width should align with the rider’s shoulder width for better handling and control. If this doesn’t feel too comfortable for you, go for a wider drop bar rather than a narrower one because increased width translates to better control.
• Reach: This refers to the drop bar’s downward curve where a cyclist’s hands would typically be positioned. Whether it’s a deep or shallow drop, the bars should fit snugly in a cyclist’s hands.

Butterfly Bars

Butterfly bars look exactly what they’re named after — butterfly wings. They’re perfect for touring bikes since they provide maximum stability and control. Note that they may be heavier than other handlebars and thus harder to maneuver, but they can take on any bike loaded with extra weight. Butterfly bars typically feature wrap-around foam grips for added comfort and ease of use. 

Cruiser Bars

These handlebars bring back childhood memories — at least for some of us! — when we spent summer days exploring the outdoors, never returning home until after the street lights had been turned on. Cruiser bars arguably promote the most comfortable and safest upright cycling position. They’re great for beginners since they help make it easier to gain control of a bike. 

Ape-Style Bars

Ape-style handlebars are popularly associated with the BMX bike. They encourage a lower riding profile and a more upright cycling position. Some riders favor it for long rides because it offers minimal strain to the wrists, elbows, and shoulders. An ape-style bar offers a sturdier alternative and can typically handle various pressures and forces of impact. 

Carbon Fiber Aerobars

These are probably the lightest and most aerodynamic handlebars available these days, making them a preference for modern riders keen on taking biking to the next level. Carbon fiber is known to be capable of giving cyclists a softer ride because it can flex under pressure and can readily absorb road vibrations. They’re sturdy and have been known to hold up well to high-impact situations. 

Wheels

Think of wheels as speed multipliers — they will multiply speed depending on how fast or slow the axle at the center of each wheel is turned. This job falls on the bike’s pedals and gears. Typically, bike wheels are at least 20 inches (508 mm) in diameter, taller than the wheels of an average vehicle. 

The taller your bike’s wheels are, the more they’re capable of multiplying your speed when you turn the axles as you pedal and switch gears. Changes in how quicker or slower you pedal, as well as gear adjustments, will affect how quickly or slowly the axles rotate. A quick movement or turn from the axle results in a much more significant action or turn in the wheel’s outer rim, thereby directly affecting your bike’s speed. 

Wheels are also equipped with spokes — those spiderweb-like wires crisscrossed to connect a wheels’ rim to the hub. These high-tension spokes allow the wheels to effectively support a rider’s weight despite being lightweight. The spokes make the wheels a sturdy three-dimensional structure capable of absorbing your weight when you sit on your bike and preventing them from buckling or bending under your weight. 

Gears

Gears are essentially 2 wheels equipped with interlocking teeth capable of altering your bike’s speed and power. The main gear wheel (also called the chain ring) sits between the pedals, while the second gear wheel is attached to the back wheel. The latter is where you will see smaller and bigger toothed wheels where the actual gear shifts occur. A typical bike can have as little as 3 to as many as 30 different gears. 

A bike’s gears are what enable your bike to move forward. They do so by integrating the gear on your chain ring (located near your pedal) and the gear on the sprocket (found near your rear wheel). You can count on gears to help make an uphill ride easier, or a ride on a flat surface go much faster. This is where gear ratio comes in — which is the number of teeth on the front wheel divided by the number of teeth on the back wheel. 

If your front gear has 60 teeth (60T) and your rear gear has 30 teeth (30T), simply divide 60 by 30, and you get a quotient of 2, which is your gear ratio. A gear ratio of 2 means that each time you make 1 pedal revolution (corresponding to 1 full turn of the front gear), the rear gear rotates twice. Remember that the bigger your gear ratio (aim for fewer teeth in the rear gear), the faster your bike will go.

Crank 

The crank is responsible for moving your bike forward by utilizing your leg power via each revolution you make around it. Simply put, it converts your energy into speed.

It is composed of these main parts:

• Front Derailleur: It is what allows you to switch gears. It derails the chain ring, thus allowing you to change speeds.
• Crank Arms: These are the levers attached to your pedals. The length of the arms dramatically affects cadence since it dictates how soon you can make a pedal revolution around the crank.
• Bottom Bracket: This is where crank arms are attached. 

The shorter your crank, the less time it takes to make 1 pedal revolution than if you would’ve exerted the same amount of force on a longer crank. Thus, a shorter crank will demand a higher cycling cadence. 

A shorter crank is ideal for people keen on avoiding injuries to their joints and muscles. Hip injury, in particular, can be prevented with a shorter crank because there will be a reduction in the pressure exerted on the hips with each pedal stroke. Furthermore, a shorter crank encourages a more aerodynamic riding position.

Brakes

Some modern bikes are equipped with disc brakes similar to those found in cars, but most bikes these days still employ friction to function correctly. This means that the bike will rely on the rubbing force between 2 elements sliding against each other. In this case, it is the friction between the brake blocks and the rims of the front and back wheels. 

Brake levers are attached to the handlebars for easy access. When you press on a brake lever, kinetic energy is converted to heat energy through friction, effectively slowing your bike down. The drawback of this type of bike braking system is that the bike’s rims, which are the sites of friction generation, are vulnerable to various elements. Rain, sun, and splashes from the road and the wheels can all affect how quickly or slowly the braking system reacts. 

Disc brakes may be the solution to this dilemma. However, note that this braking system is much heavier and involves a more complex system to work. Riders typically aim to make their bikes aerodynamic and light, that’s why disc brakes are arguably the less popular option even though they may be more reliable in rainy or snowy conditions. 

Cadence and Cycling Efficiency

The product of the force applied on your pedals (torque) and your pedaling speed (angular velocity) is your energy output on your bike. You can quickly deduce that changes in your cadence will instantly result in changes in how much energy you’ll be able to produce. 

However, note that biking is not all about producing maximum power. Boosting cycling efficiency should also be among your goals since this can help build both your strength and endurance. Paying extra attention to your cadence can help increase your riding efficiency.  

Here is a quick look at how both ends of the cadence spectrum can affect your riding efficiency:

Low Cadence: The Good and the Bad

A low cadence is usually referred to as “grinding” or “mashing.” It requires a higher level of torque — the amount of force you’re generating to press onto the pedals — to produce the same amount of power generated by a higher cadence with lower torque. Essentially, you must sustain a certain level of torque to maintain your cadence. 

The Good

A low cadence is great for cyclists aiming to improve their strength. Grinding on pure leg power will build muscle strength. It is excellent training for uphill climbs and long rides where the strength and flexibility of your muscles and joints will be significant factors in helping you reach your goal.

The Bad

Cycling at a low cadence and high torque exposes your feet, muscles, and joints (specifically in the ankles, hips, and knees) to more strain. This is because you exert more force each time you make a revolution as you pedal. Increased strain can be linked to an increased risk of injuries, stress, and fatigue. Knee pain, in particular, is prevalent among low-cadence riders. 

High Cadence: The Good and the Bad

A high cadence is typically referred to as “spinning.” Experts suggest cycling at a high cadence coupled with a high level of torque to produce maximum power. It’s not something many people can do, but gradually building up from a level you’re comfortable with is the key to improving your efficiency. 

The Good

A higher cadence is ideal for long rides where endurance is key to achieving the goal. It is a great way to boost cardiovascular health. Rather than counting on sheer muscle power to get going, a high cadence allows you to build your stamina and endurance while you ride. 

A high cadence also helps in minimizing muscle co-activation. This happens a lot when riding at a low cadence because you activate your quads and hamstrings, resulting in a less efficient pedal stroke. With a higher RPM, pedal efficiency is boosted, and the risk of muscle stress and injury is reduced. 

The Bad

A higher cadence does not always translate to boosted efficiency. If your cadence is too high, you may soon find yourself losing control of your pedal movements. Sometimes, you may even start practically bouncing on your saddle with each stroke you make. This yields reduced pedaling power and efficiency because fluidity is compromised.

What Is a Good Cycling Cadence for Beginners?

Arguably, the most efficient cycling cadence for beginners is 60-90 RPM. This range is a great starting point because you can easily adjust your rhythm and intensity depending on your capacity. You should also take your objectives into consideration to boost your riding efficiency. 

Different Strokes for Different Folks

When it comes to cadence, it is not a one size fits all type of deal. The amount of energy you’re willing to expend depends on what your objectives are in the first place. For instance, someone biking for purely recreational purposes will most definitely aim for a different cadence than someone biking in a race. The idea is to determine the most efficient way to achieve the amount of power you are aiming for. 

Let’s take a closer look at how cadence differs depending on what the cyclist’s goal is:

Ideal Cadence for Exercise

A cadence of 50-60 RPM is a good place to start. This helps build muscle strength, which is an inevitable gain from high-torque activities. However, keep in mind that grinding at low RPMs for extended periods may put extreme and unnecessary stress on your muscles, joints, and even your bone density. Avoid extremely low RPMs — in the 40-50 range — and designate 70 RPM as a safe middle ground. 

Ideal Cadence for Racing

Sustaining a cadence of 75-100 RPM is ideal for racers and pros. Some can even sustain more than 100 RPM during attacks, while others may go well over 110 RPM for sprints. These high cadences demand less muscle force from the cyclist and shift the demand to cardiovascular strength. 

Ideal Cadence for Climbing

A cadence of 70-90 RPM is a good range to work with. You can adjust depending on your preference and whenever you feel that you’re beginning to slow down or speed up. Pacing yourself and conserving energy are critical factors in getting to the top.

Riding at the lower end of this range may put you into the red — the point when you’re practically exceeding your threshold. This is when your heart rate is up, breathing is labored, leg muscles are burning, and you can barely speak. Pros can work in these conditions for about an hour or so, but going into the red is not advisable for beginners. On the other hand, riding at the higher end of the spectrum will result in reduced energy output, translating to slower speeds. 

Ideal Cadence for Long Rides

Aim for a cadence of 80-90 RPM. A higher cadence shifts the focus from your muscles pressing on the pedals to your cardiovascular system. This will help develop your cardiovascular fitness and thus improve your endurance, agility, coordination, and overall physical condition.

Why Cycling Cadence Matters 

Settling on a reasonable cadence significantly enhances your biking experience. Apart from improving your efficiency and reducing your risk of injuries, a comfortable cadence also matters in various aspects during your ride. 

Here are some key points that make identifying a good cadence essential to the biking experience:

• Helps avoid wasting energy as you ride.
• Helps avoid injuries.
• Helps ward off fatigue, one of the primary antagonists of cyclists. 
• Aids in improving overall fitness and performance by allowing you to focus both on strength and endurance training. 

How To Improve Your Cycling Cadence

There are many ways to improve your cycling cadence, but the prevalent factor among them is practice. As the saying goes, “Practice makes perfect,” and this holds true, especially for biking. The more you work on your strength, endurance, and overall fitness, the more you will be able to improve on specific aspects of your riding experience.

Here are some ways to improve your cycling cadence:

Alter Your Cycling Cadence During Training

It would be best to familiarize yourself with riding within the broad range of the cadence scale so you can better adapt to various situations that you might, later on, find yourself in. Getting comfortable with riding in both low and high cadence will help you develop efficient pedaling strategies in various environments and conditions. 

Remember that training at the lower end of the spectrum scale is beneficial in improving your strength and technique. On the other hand, learning how best to tackle higher RPMs will allow you to work on your endurance. 

Experts suggest starting your drills on the middle ground (about 70 RPM) before working your way up and down the cadence spectrum. This way, your muscles and joints don’t get unnecessarily stressed at lower cadences (this is where you’re more prone to knee pain if you’re not careful), and you learn how to not bounce on your saddle at higher cadences by developing a smoother pedaling technique. 

Practice Indoors

You can use a turbo trainer to help improve your riding techniques within the comfort of your home. This will come in handy when weather conditions make it difficult for you to train outdoors and when you simply do not have enough time to go out and train. 

An indoor environment may help you focus more on your technique since there will be no distractions, such as potholes or traffic, to worry about. Download an app, such as Zwift, on your smartphone so you can train on virtual roads that mimic actual outdoor conditions. 

Focus on Your Upstroke

Your downstroke is what dictates power in your pedaling technique. It may be easy to pay very little attention to your upstroke, but experts say that this is what can significantly affect your cadence and riding efficiency. 

Essentially, a good cadence allows your muscles to engage and relax systematically and harmoniously. Try pulling back a little as you enter the upstroke — pretend you’re scraping mud from your shoe on the pavement. This allows you to make a full-range pedal stroke at each revolution, promoting enhanced contraction and relaxation of muscles for maximum efficiency. 

Do Isolated Leg Drills

Isolated leg drills allow you to focus on perfecting your pedal stroke for each leg for maximum force and efficiency. A turbo trainer is essential for these drills. Start with one leg while ensuring that the other is entirely out of the way (rest it on the trainer or a nearby chair). 

Begin with a low cadence that feels comfortable for you. Pedal with just 1 leg and sustain this for about 20 seconds. Focus on the minute movements of your full pedal stroke, paying extra attention to how you do your upstroke and downstroke. 

The goal is to apply consistent tension on your pedals and chains. Your trainer will alert you of lapses with unmistakable tapping sounds. Immediately alter your movements to avoid developing bad pedaling habits. Shift to the other leg and repeat the process. 

Key Takeaways

Efficiency and strength are vital elements in achieving your cycling goals. Your cycling cadence is a significant factor that can tie these 2 together and help make your riding experience better. As a beginner, starting at a cadence comfortable to you is essential. You can then work your way up, building your energy and stamina along the way until you achieve maximum efficiency and power.